Dracula and Romania, p2

Back on the road, I eventually made it to the parallel mountain crossing. I was glad now that I at least attempted the more scenic, quiet route first because this one was clouded by black fume belching Romanian vehicles. 

After I finally got over that pass, my goal was Sighisoara, the birthplace of the Vlad Dracula, later called Vlad Tepes when he was King of Wallachia in the 15th century. Tepes means 'impaler' in Romanian, and during his reign he is said to have had an unpleasant habit of impaling criminals and prisoners, mostly Turkish marauders, on wooden stakes!  (This may have something to do with Bram Stokers' reasoning to use the wooden stake as the method to kill his fictional Dracula). 

In this small, well preserved Transylvanian town I headed up to the hill above and found the quaint old town complete with medieval clock tower and history museum. The museum was closed, but the Berari Restaurant located at Piata Muzeului 5 was open. It is reputedly the place where Vlad Tepes was born in 1431, as the sign over the door, and my book, states. I wasn't hungry so I just took my place at the bar for a beer, pondering what it would have been like for young Vlad growing up here in the 15th century. 

The next day I took my time while driving towards Brasov. At times I went off the main road to get away from the terribly slow Romanian trucks, emitting those ferocious diesel fumes.  The towns and villages in Romania that aren't near industrial areas or Bucharest are generally quite pleasant to look at. The golden glow of the sun against the soft pastel houses; the residents going about their business, tending the chickens, their vegetable gardens or sitting on the front porch can make a peaceful scene unlike any you'd imagine to find in Romania. 

I arrived in Brasov in the late afternoon, and though it is a big industrial city, it has a very well kept old town at the foot of mountains. Many of the ornately decorated buildings of the old town date back to 12th century Saxon times.  One of the most impressive is the 'Black Church,' lying at the far end of the traffic-free main street. It's said that this well known church took nearly 100 years to build. Although it's not black now, it was named that because of damage by the great fire of 1689. The inside is impressive and well kept, and has one of the largest organs in this part of Europe.  

Many of the other buildings in the old town area are in much better shape than when I was here a few years ago. Fresh paint, pizzerias and cafes will keep Brasov on the tourist map. As will Castle Bran, a short drive to the south-west of Brasov. I stayed the night at the hotel practically on the castle's doorstep.

The next morning I went over to the castle just before opening time and was overwhelmed by the hoards of package tourists standing and waiting for opening. The most 'foreigners' I'd seen on the whole journey. As we were let in I had to push my way around for space.  Bran Castle was originally built in the 14th century by the Saxon merchants and was meant to protect Bran Pass and the citizens of Brasov against the raiders of the time. Those raiders included Vlad Tepes and his army. Though it's said that he never actually conquered Bran Castle, it has become known on the tourist trail as 'Dracula's castle.' 

Many guidebooks refer to Bran as being Dracula's castle, while others say he never stepped foot in the place. As I was taking my self-guided tour, I got behind a group of tourists who I found out were English. I followed them up a secret passageway that seemed only guided tours had access to, I listened in for a while and found out from their guide that a few pieces of the very limited furniture is original 14th century - nice to know because the place did smell of fresh paint and renovation. 

Afterwards I asked the guide for the English group about the Vlad Tepes controversy. He said "why of course Vlad Tepes has stepped foot in this castle, he never 'lived' here, but was said to have been imprisoned here for a time!" He then confirmed that Poienari Citadel is thought to be the 'real' Dracula's castle, but it was too hard to get to and there wasn't enough for the group tourist to see, he explained.